Dear Internet,
I have arrived safely in the pearl of
Africa, Uganda! I flew into Entebbe airport on Sunday/Monday, arriving at around 5AM (which
actually looks remarkably like the last scene in the Last King of Scotland now
that I think about it)... The first nice surprise was the fact that everyone
else in the passport queue had to pay $50 for a visa, but I didn’t because
there’s no visa charge for the Irish, thanks to all the foreign aid we give
every year! So nobody has any excuse not to visit me really.
I was picked up by a lovely 24 year old
Ugandan who brought me to Lacor House in Kampala where I stayed overnight. I
was awoken at 10AM with the plan to leave at 11AM – properly
African-time-shtyle we didn’t end up hitting the road until 5PM. And hitting
the road is rather literal – serious potholes up the north of Uganda, mostly a
dirt road, but I had great company with an American clinical officer, two
Italian technicians who have come to set up a new XRay machine, a Ugandan XRay
technician and our driver. The landscape was a lot greener than I had imagined
it to be, we had several drive-thrus (ie. where traders approach with
pineapples and bananas on their heads when you’re stopped in traffic), which
had a plentiful supply of fruit and nuts. I also crossed both the equator and the Nile, but it was too dark to see anything so I'll keep my eyes peeled the next time I head to Kampala!
I arrived in Gulu at 1AM. Managed to
terrorise some poor English volunteer in the hospital guesthouse by barging
accidentally into his room in the middle of the night, but managed to get a few
hours sleep before waking to the sound of a cock crowing. Incessantly. At the
crack of dawn.
There are such stark contrasts between the
hospital here and what I’m used to at home, I’m not sure where to even start.
Firstly, the heat. It is like 27 degrees or
more everyday, with no air conditioning or fans. The hospital itself has almost
500 beds, split into medical, surgical, obstetrics, gynaecology and paediatric
wards, as well as a 10 bed ICU and the capacity for six operating theatres. So
there is a huge number of staff, all of whom so far have been so friendly to
me. People tend to stare and children shout ‘Muzungu’ (which means white
person) when they see me and my pashty complexion, but it’s very inoffensive
and I’ve been told the best thing to do is wave and say hello. So I more or
less feel like somewhat of a celebrity.
Bottle of local brew, 5.9%. Yeoooow.
I’ve spent my first four days in operating
theatre. It is totally different to home. As there is a shortage of doctors in
general in Uganda and a large requirement for trained anaesthetists, they run a
two-year anaesthesia training programme for non-physicians (ie. Nurses or
clinical officers). After this they are fully trained in anaesthesia and
intensive care and may end up as the only anaesthetist in a rural hospital. As
far as I know, the medically trained anaesthetists are known as
anaesthesiologists. It does make me feel like a bit of a shmuck embarking on a
six year training programme... They actually have something similar for medical
doctors here too – called a ‘medical officer’ or ‘clinical officer’ where they
don’t have a medical degree but can perform most of the duties of the
doctor. With such a large population and
so few trained doctors it seems to be the only and best solution here. There is also extremely limited radiology –
only XRay and ultrasound (and occasionally a small bit of fluoroscopy). There
is no CT or MRI.
Most of the operations I’ve seen are
general surgery and obstetrics/gynaecology. For almost all procedures (90%
according to the anaesthesiologists) they do not use general anaesthesia,
opting instead for spinal blocks. This seemed absolutely bizarre to me
initially, to have women fully awake during a hysterectomy or a toe amputation
it works very well as there is a shorter recovery time and less requirement for
intubation and ventilation (there are only 3 ventilators available). What I’m
beginning to understand about working with limited resources is that you reuse and
recycle as much as possible without endangering the patient. A spinal only
needs a few syringes and needles, but general anesthesia requires a sterilized
laryngoscope, an endotracheal tube, possibly a sterile mask, a ventilator,
oxygen and an inhalational agent (normally halothane) which are both very
limited. There is no waste here – all drapes, gowns, hats, masks, tubing, and
all equipment are sterilized and reused as much as possible. Sure half the
time, instead of using a blanket for the patient going to recovery, the surgeon
will give you his gown to cover the patient. And here there is nothing wrong
with that!
I’m living with the nicest Ugandan woman
across the road from the hospital and really enjoying it so far. Her sister had
a baby the other day by C-section and I was there with her for the procedure so
it’s a very exciting time and there’s loads of their family about. I’m loving
the African food and learning a few odd phrases of the tribal Acholi language
but mostly everyone speaks a bit of English. I actually cannot even begin to
explain how friendly everyone here is, every five seconds someone welcomes me
and shakes my hand!
Final tot from the fundraising was €3750 –
half of which will go to St Judes and half toward medical supplies for St
Mary’s Hospital. Thank you all so much for your generosity, it will really go
far here!
I’m a bit overwhelmed at the moment and
there is so much to say about this place but I’ll continue to update the blog
when I’ve access to wifi and/or when I’ve formulated some coherent thoughts
about life here!
Wee shnake on the road to Gulu today (Friday)... It might have been dead but I didn't get too close to check..!